Thursday, April 15, 2010

The K-2 Mount Godwin Austen

Brief Climbing History of K-2
the first time in 1902 a European climbing expedition led by Englishman Eckenstein climbed k-2 up to 6600 meters. Seven years later it was time for the Duke of Abruzzi's large expedition to Karakorum and K2. Mountain photographer Vittorio Sella took a lot of fabulous and legendary photos. To start with, they tried to reach up through the South East Ridge (that later was named after the Duke). Later, the expedition made an attempt to climb K2's guardian in the west, the 7,544 meter high Skyang Kangri, but a giant gorge blocked their way at 6,600 meters. However, later on Chogolisa (7,654 meters) the Duke reached 7,500 meters with a resolute attack. This became an absolute high altitude record until 1922 when it was beaten on Everest. In 1938 American expedition led by Charles Houston made an attempt to 7925 meters. Again in 1939 American German Expedition led by Fritz Wiessner climbed very close to 8000 meters. In 1953 when the Americans again headed for K2. The expedition consisted of eight men, including the veterans Houston and Bates (from the 1938 expedition), Tony Streather (who had been with the Norwegians on Tirich Mir in 1950) and George Bell famous climber. All of all eight climbers reached an altitude of 7750 meters, but a snowstorm again started and the stuck at camp VIII for more than week and decided to descend.
The Climb
1953 Italian Professor Ardito Desio and Mario Puchoz researched for the possible routes up K2. They probed the terrain up to 6,000 meters and made a lot of observations. When Desio got home, he made the final plans to reach the summit. In 1954 Italian Expedition led by Professor Desio successfully scaled the 2nd highest on July 31st 1954 on Abruzzi spur. The ascenders were Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni.
Locally the K-2 is known as Chogori , meaning the king of mountains. Really it is standing like a king in the heart of Karakorum Range. Since the existence of Pakistan more than well-equipped expeditions mostly from Europe and Japan, have this far flung region. Several scientific and research parties have also carried out extensive work open the Fauna, flora and hidden minerals of the area. This expedition was accompanied by Prof. Ardit Desio, a renowned personality in the realm of mountaineering who latter led the 1954 successful expedition to the world’s second peak-----K-2.
After having dealt the historical and other physical aspects of the Karakorum it would be worthwhile to mention about the region in which it is situated this longest range of the high mountains. This area comprises of two the then agencies of Northern Areas---Gilgit and Baltistan famous for some of the most beautiful valleys of the world.
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